Septic tanks and water pollution

Really should consider a roof, that can take a few solar panels, unless you plan on running a line out from the house. Lights, a fan, maybe some heat, would all be reasonable comforts, using 'green' energy though.

Xadoman wrote:

Really should consider a roof, that can take a few solar panels, unless you plan on running a line out from the house. Lights, a fan, maybe some heat, would all be reasonable comforts, using 'green' energy though.

I am considering it. I am not sure how efficient is natural ventilation through ventilation pipes so an electrical fan could be needed. I initially though about installing whirly birds on vent pipes but I also do not know how effective are those. I guess if there is no wind they do not work.
So for the solar setup I need a couple of solar panels and that is it? Or do I need a battery also?

Xadoman wrote:

Really should consider a roof, that can take a few solar panels, unless you plan on running a line out from the house. Lights, a fan, maybe some heat, would all be reasonable comforts, using 'green' energy though.

I am considering it. I am not sure how efficient is natural ventilation through ventilation pipes so an electrical fan could be needed. I initially though about installing whirly birds on vent pipes but I also do not know how effective are those. I guess if there is no wind they do not work.
So for the solar setup I need a couple of solar panels and that is it? Or do I need a battery also?

Into the Night wrote:

Xadoman wrote:

Really should consider a roof, that can take a few solar panels, unless you plan on running a line out from the house. Lights, a fan, maybe some heat, would all be reasonable comforts, using 'green' energy though.

I am considering it. I am not sure how efficient is natural ventilation through ventilation pipes so an electrical fan could be needed. I initially though about installing whirly birds on vent pipes but I also do not know how effective are those. I guess if there is no wind they do not work.
So for the solar setup I need a couple of solar panels and that is it? Or do I need a battery also?

No power at night from solar. Batteries can ballast solar power so you have power at night, but you won't have a lot of power. Maybe enough to run a light in the place for awhile. Fans require more power.

The whirly birds do work. It doesn't take much wind to run them. They don't have to run all the time either.

HarveyH55 wrote:

Into the Night wrote:

Xadoman wrote:

Really should consider a roof, that can take a few solar panels, unless you plan on running a line out from the house. Lights, a fan, maybe some heat, would all be reasonable comforts, using 'green' energy though.

I am considering it. I am not sure how efficient is natural ventilation through ventilation pipes so an electrical fan could be needed. I initially though about installing whirly birds on vent pipes but I also do not know how effective are those. I guess if there is no wind they do not work.
So for the solar setup I need a couple of solar panels and that is it? Or do I need a battery also?

No power at night from solar. Batteries can ballast solar power so you have power at night, but you won't have a lot of power. Maybe enough to run a light in the place for awhile. Fans require more power.

The whirly birds do work. It doesn't take much wind to run them. They don't have to run all the time either.

Wouldn't need to run the lights, the fan, or anything all the time, just when the outhouse is occupied. Could be on a motion detector and a timer. Just something to consider. Deep cycle marine batteries work pretty good, and living on a lake, should be able to 'borrow' one out of a boat...

Xadoman wrote:
Thanks James, I appreciate your wisdom and math skills. It looks like you have a quick and elegant solution to every problem. Have you worked as an engineer?

Basically when the pipe goes through the roof, you have some means of covering any gap between the roof and the pipe.

Xadoman wrote:

Basically when the pipe goes through the roof, you have some means of covering any gap between the roof and the pipe.

I am going to use some special chimney pass throughs made of plastic and metal sheet. Those will cover the area around the pipes and the metal sheet will go all the way up under the ridge tile.

James___ wrote:

Xadoman wrote:

Basically when the pipe goes through the roof, you have some means of covering any gap between the roof and the pipe.

I am going to use some special chimney pass throughs made of plastic and metal sheet. Those will cover the area around the pipes and the metal sheet will go all the way up under the ridge tile.

Will their be any caulking around the pipe? With boats and a lapstrake hull, cotton and then caulking will be used to keep water out. Have done it before is why I know how to do it. Will you be doing anything similar to prevent moisture from going below the top of the tiles?

p.s., with waterproofing a lapstrake hull, I think it's actually cotton batting that is used. It fills
the gap caused by overlapping planks/boards. Then the caulk is pressed into the cotton batting creating a seal.
I just wonder if that might help to keep moisture out of your roof.

HarveyH55 wrote:
Boat caulking works, because it swells when it gets wet. Pretty sure that's not how they do roofs.

Check the exhausts. Make sure all ducts from bathrooms, kitchens or other living areas exhaust to the outside, not the attic.
Check the flashing around the chimney. Over time, the flashing may crack and separate from the roof, causing hot air to potentially escape and allowing water to trickle in along the chimney.
https://www.allstate.com/tr/home-insurance/icicles-sign-ice-dams.aspx

James___ wrote:

HarveyH55 wrote:
Boat caulking works, because it swells when it gets wet. Pretty sure that's not how they do roofs.

James___ wrote:
Is there a reason they couldn't?

James___ wrote:
And I think Xadoman is designing it the way he wants so what he does would be up to him, right?

James___ wrote:
If you notice, his tiles do not have a flat surface on top. I posted it as something he might consider. And if he does, then he could paint the caulking to match his tiles.

James___ wrote:
That could help to prevent water (melted snow) from getting underneath his tiles and then refreezing by the eave of his roof.

James___ wrote:
That could cause water to collect underneath his tiles and then eventually leak into the interior walls.

James___ wrote:
[quote]Check the exhausts. Make sure all ducts from bathrooms, kitchens or other living areas exhaust to the outside, not the attic.
Check the flashing around the chimney. Over time, the flashing may crack and separate from the roof, causing hot air to potentially escape and allowing water to trickle in along the chimney.
...deleted redundant link to Allstate...

James___ wrote:
Kind of why I mentioned it Harvey. Am aware of ice dams and the potential damage that they could cause.

With concrete, it's damage is usually caused by water getting into cracks and crevices and then freezing.

James___ wrote:
Why concrete is sealed. Even warm water will expand so same thing.

James___ wrote:
It's about preventing water damage.

James___ wrote:

HarveyH55 wrote:
Boat caulking works, because it swells when it gets wet. Pretty sure that's not how they do roofs.

Is there a reason they couldn't? And I think Xadoman is designing it the way he wants so what he does would be up to him, right?
If you notice, his tiles do not have a flat surface on top. I posted it as something he might consider. And if he does, then he could paint the caulking to match his tiles.
That could help to prevent water (melted snow) from getting underneath his tiles and then refreezing by the eave of his roof. That could cause water to collect underneath his tiles and then eventually leak into the interior walls.

Check the exhausts. Make sure all ducts from bathrooms, kitchens or other living areas exhaust to the outside, not the attic.
Check the flashing around the chimney. Over time, the flashing may crack and separate from the roof, causing hot air to potentially escape and allowing water to trickle in along the chimney.
https://www.allstate.com/tr/home-insurance/icicles-sign-ice-dams.aspx

Kind of why I mentioned it Harvey. Am aware of ice dams and the potential damage that they could cause. With concrete, it's damage is usually caused by water getting into cracks and crevices and then freezing. Why concrete is sealed. Even warm water will expand so same thing. It's about preventing water damage.

HarveyH55 wrote:

James___ wrote:

HarveyH55 wrote:
Boat caulking works, because it swells when it gets wet. Pretty sure that's not how they do roofs.

Is there a reason they couldn't? And I think Xadoman is designing it the way he wants so what he does would be up to him, right?
If you notice, his tiles do not have a flat surface on top. I posted it as something he might consider. And if he does, then he could paint the caulking to match his tiles.
That could help to prevent water (melted snow) from getting underneath his tiles and then refreezing by the eave of his roof. That could cause water to collect underneath his tiles and then eventually leak into the interior walls.

Check the exhausts. Make sure all ducts from bathrooms, kitchens or other living areas exhaust to the outside, not the attic.
Check the flashing around the chimney. Over time, the flashing may crack and separate from the roof, causing hot air to potentially escape and allowing water to trickle in along the chimney.
https://www.allstate.com/tr/home-insurance/icicles-sign-ice-dams.aspx

Kind of why I mentioned it Harvey. Am aware of ice dams and the potential damage that they could cause. With concrete, it's damage is usually caused by water getting into cracks and crevices and then freezing. Why concrete is sealed. Even warm water will expand so same thing. It's about preventing water damage.

How much of that plant-fiber caulking you mentioned, was used on the Navy cruise ship, that you rode around on? I only remember seeing it used on wood hull boats.

HarveyH55 wrote:
The caulking absorbs moisture quicker than the wood, and expands, and provides a decent seal. Wood also absorbs moisture and swells. Just takes longer. The caulking shouldn't just fall out, if you did it right. I does dry, and shrink, and can get pulled out. Ideally, it's not allowed to dry out completely.

65 footer, Norwegian Navy Destroyer?

duncan61 wrote:
Nice show James.Back to the flashing for the vents.Its clay tiles you use lead sheet thats it

James___ wrote:

HarveyH55 wrote:

James___ wrote:

HarveyH55 wrote:
Boat caulking works, because it swells when it gets wet. Pretty sure that's not how they do roofs.

Is there a reason they couldn't? And I think Xadoman is designing it the way he wants so what he does would be up to him, right?
If you notice, his tiles do not have a flat surface on top. I posted it as something he might consider. And if he does, then he could paint the caulking to match his tiles.
That could help to prevent water (melted snow) from getting underneath his tiles and then refreezing by the eave of his roof. That could cause water to collect underneath his tiles and then eventually leak into the interior walls.

Check the exhausts. Make sure all ducts from bathrooms, kitchens or other living areas exhaust to the outside, not the attic.
Check the flashing around the chimney. Over time, the flashing may crack and separate from the roof, causing hot air to potentially escape and allowing water to trickle in along the chimney.
https://www.allstate.com/tr/home-insurance/icicles-sign-ice-dams.aspx

Kind of why I mentioned it Harvey. Am aware of ice dams and the potential damage that they could cause. With concrete, it's damage is usually caused by water getting into cracks and crevices and then freezing. Why concrete is sealed. Even warm water will expand so same thing. It's about preventing water damage.

How much of that plant-fiber caulking you mentioned, was used on the Navy cruise ship, that you rode around on? I only remember seeing it used on wood hull boats.

My dad's friend had a double ender, lapstraked boat. We helped him re-caulk his hull. The cotton batting wouldn't be to absorb water as you claimed. It would be to help prevent the caulking being damaged if the wood hull expands or contracts. Also because with a lapstrake configuration, what happens if the boards move? So you see, the cotton batting actually keeps the caulking positioned so if it moves, it won't tear.
Haven't you ever worked on a boat before? This is where your lack of experience shows. And with what Xadoman is doing, if he likes the idea, it'd be a cheap way to help protect his investment. You know, just keep all of the snow and water on top of his tiles.

p.s., the boat I helped to re-caulk was a 65 footer Harvey. The hull will flex some on any boat.

James___ wrote:

HarveyH55 wrote:
The caulking absorbs moisture quicker than the wood, and expands, and provides a decent seal. Wood also absorbs moisture and swells. Just takes longer. The caulking shouldn't just fall out, if you did it right. I does dry, and shrink, and can get pulled out. Ideally, it's not allowed to dry out completely.

65 footer, Norwegian Navy Destroyer?

Considering the guy worked with my dad at Boeing...
I did take an aircraft carrier through dry dock. We were the first ship's crew to have to help with the overhaul. And out of dry dock, lots of maintenance.
I also did many FOD walks on the flight deck. If you follow the bottom of the "flying bridge" straight back, the walk way is called "Vultures Row" Watched a lot of flight ops which consist of TOLs.
Unless we were on West-Pac (deployed), a minimum number of TOLs were required before returning to port. You must be bored because you've had an easy life. I get that a lot from people.

I got one for you Harvey. At the 1:55, 1:56 time stamp, three sailors in a row on the right side getting up on stage. I'm the 3rd guy. I found a gal to dance with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vq0nswHlzKQ
And just think, somewhere they have archived footage from the camera on the stage. If things work out for me, I might ask for it. Yep, I can even say that I've been on national TV even though you can't see my face. It's just that we weren't supposed to go up on stage. A guy on the left side started up and then a lot of us followed suit. And that was when I was on the USS Ranger, the first aircraft carrier that I served aboard. And with my science experiment, it's genesis is from when I served in the US Navy. It's a kick to remember that Harvey. I sought out one of the dancers while other guys just started dancing. And if you follow the camera that rolls across the middle of the stage, I'm the 2nd sailor dancing with a dancer for the show.
Still, need a life today.

James___ wrote:
Get a clue Harvey. When I lived with my American grandmother, the kitchen sink had only cold water. Just no other running water. Baths were with a wash cloth in the winter and in a rain barrel when it was warm.
Chicken dinners consisted of her pulling off their heads (me and my brothers had fun chasing them, the old saying is true about a chicken with its head cutoff) and my plucking them. Black gals have told me they weren't that poor, their mothers bought store bought chicken. Plucking a chicken is a beotch. If it hasn't been boiled long enough, it's really difficult to pluck one.
It was so bad that for a snack in the summer, we had to eat grapes off of the vine. Or worse yet, green beans and corn for dinner? You guessed it, we had to go out and take some off of the stalk or vine. That was rough. Picking and shucking both corn and green beans for dinner.
It's in a can for a reason. And most people haven't experienced the good and the difficult in America. With my grandmother, we had the neighbors dairy farm we could roam. It had more acreage. It wasn't just 5 acres.
I mean living in a mansion is nice and all but where my grandmother lived was better. The question is, which grandmother. And that I won't say. My grandmother in Norway had a better life than me and she only visited the US once.